Mad Hungry: Sunday Suppers

vinegar glossed chicken

serves 6 to 8

When rosemary vinegar is added to a pan of golden-brown chicken, alchemy occurs as the vinegar deglazes those brown bits and reduces itself into a syrup. It permeates each chicken piece with an agrodolce (sweet-and-sour) flavor. There's no better accompaniment than polenta, soft and loose or firm and sliced. (Rice, pasta, or bread will also work—as long as there is something to sop up the sauce.) This is a dish that only improves when made in advance.

1 cup (240 mL) best-quality red wine vinegar

2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced (about 2 tablespoons)

3 sprigs of fresh rosemary (about 1 tablespoon minced)

5½ pounds (2.5 kg) bone-in chicken pieces (each part should be cut in half)

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Extra-virgin olive oil

¾ cup (180 mL) chicken broth, plus more as needed

At least 15 minutes but up to 2 hours before cooking, combine the vinegar, garlic, and rosemary to marinate.

Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Heat a 14-inch (36 cm) skillet (or two smaller skillets) over high heat and add a splash of olive oil. Place the chicken in the skillet, skin-side down. Don't crowd the chicken. Work in batches if necessary. You should hear an immediate sizzle when the chicken pieces hit the pan. Don't move them; it takes a couple of minutes to sear the chicken so it doesn't stick. Brown all sides; this will take 10 minutes per batch. Regulate the heat so it stays high but does not burn the chicken. Place all the browned chicken back in the skillet.

Add the chicken broth and scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat, simmer, and reduce for 15 to 20 minutes. Increase the heat to high and pour in the vinegar mixture. Swirl the pan and stir around as the vinegar evaporates to form a simmering glaze, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve.

chicken parmesan

serves at least 6

You can prepare the sauce and chicken in the morning, then assemble the dish and pop it in the oven just before dinner. With spaghetti, sautéed spinach, and warm, crusty bread, it makes a perfect Sunday dinner.

¼ cup (60 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

1 (28-ounce/794 g) can tomatoes, lightly pulsed with a blender or food processor

2 teaspoons coarse salt

3 pounds (1.3 kg) boneless, skinless chicken breasts (3 whole breasts, split down the middle)

½ cup (22 g) plain bread crumbs

¾ cup (85 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus more if needed

1½ pounds (680 g) fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced thin

Heat a saucepan over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the garlic, and the red pepper flakes. Stir for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Simmer for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, working on a large surface covered in baking parchment or plastic wrap, lay down the chicken breasts. Using a sharp slicing knife, cut each piece in half horizontally through the middle.

In a large prep pan or dish, combine the bread crumbs and ½ cup (60 g) of the Parmesan cheese. Spread out to cover the whole bottom of the pan. Lay down as many chicken breasts as will fit on the mixture. Sprinkle salt and pepper over each piece and turn over, completely coating them with the bread crumb mixture. Repeat the process with the remaining pieces of chicken.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl in 2 tablespoons of olive oil, along with the butter, to coat the pan. Add the chicken breasts in one layer and cook until golden, about 3 minutes on each side. Remove and repeat the process for the remaining chicken, adding a little oil and butter to the pan as needed.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Spoon some tomato sauce into a greased 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33 cm) baking dish to cover. Layer in the chicken pieces and top with mozzarella slices. Spoon over about 1¼ cups (300 mL) more sauce and sprinkle on the remaining ¼ cup (25 g) Parmesan cheese. Bake until golden and bubbling, 30 to 35 minutes. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving.

chicken enchiladas salsa verde

serves 6

If you're pressed for time, use a store-bought green sauce (made from tomatillos) and shredded store-bought rotisserie chicken for a quicker version of this dish. These bubbling, subtle-tasting enchiladas are even better with a cool, crunchy salad on top.

Green sauce

½ white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 garlic cloves, unpeeled

2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, stems removed

14 whole tomatillos, peeled and simmered in water for 5 minutes

¼ cup (38 g) unsalted roasted peanuts

2 teaspoons coarse salt

½ cup (120 mL) chicken broth

Enchiladas

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus 2 teaspoons more for dressing the salad

3 cups (720 mL) green sauce

12 corn tortillas, toasted, stacked, and wrapped in a clean kitchen towel to steam

4 cups (600 g) shredded chicken (from a 3-pound/1.4 kg poached chicken)

1⅓ cups (7 ounces/200 g) crumbled queso fresco, or shredded Monterey Jack cheese

3 to 4 cups (84 to 112 g) shredded romaine lettuce, washed and dried

6 radishes, trimmed and sliced

1 teaspoon white vinegar

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the sauce, preheat the broiler. Place the onion, garlic, and chiles on a baking sheet. Broil for 4 minutes, or until charred and blistered. Discard the garlic skin. Place the onion, garlic, and chiles in a blender jar with the tomatillos, peanuts, salt, and broth. Blend until smooth.

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

To make the enchiladas, heat a saucepan to medium-high and add the tablespoon of oil. Carefully pour in the green sauce and cook, stirring constantly, to thicken up, about 3 minutes. One by one, dip the tortillas in the sauce, place in an ungreased 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33 cm) baking dish, fill with some chicken, and roll up. Fit each enchilada snugly next to the other in the baking dish. Pour the remaining green sauce over the enchiladas. Sprinkle the cheese on top. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the enchiladas are heated through.

Meanwhile, toss the lettuce and radishes with the remaining 2 teaspoons oil, the vinegar, and salt and pepper. Layer the salad on top of the hot enchiladas and serve immediately.

flat roast chicken

serves 4 or 6

A roast chicken or two is a wonderful way to feed a horde of ravenous guests or family members. Laying the whole bird flat allows it to cook in under an hour. Gone is the problem of the breast cooking before the rest; all the pieces cook evenly. If you wish, finish with a sauce poured over after cooking, which tastes tangy and delicious over the crisp skin. An ovenproof 14-inch (36 cm) skillet, preferably cast-iron, makes for an easy job.

1 whole chicken, 3 to 4 pounds (1.4 to 1.8 kg), backbone removed

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup (60 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled (optional)