The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual

PART 1
BLOOMING HOUSEPLANTS

Abutilon

FAMILY: MALVACEAE ORIGIN: BRAZIL

Abutilon hybridum ah-BU-te-lon hi-BRI-dum

ABUTILON, FLOWERING MAPLE

ABUTILON IS CALLED FLOWERING MAPLE because of the shape of its broad, five-lobed leaves, but it is in no way a maple. It is more closely related to the hollyhock and to the weed known as velvet leaf. When given good light and proper care, abutilon rewards its keeper by producing papery blossoms on drooping stems nearly year-round. Flowers may be red, yellow, pink, orange, or peach, depending on variety. Some varieties feature leaves mottled with yellow, but the strongest growers have solid green leaves. Abutilon plants tend toward legginess, so it is important to prune them back by one-third their size in the spring, just before the most vigorous flush of new growth begins. Also pinch back stems occasionally through the summer to promote a full, bushy shape. Regular pruning makes it easy to keep an abutilon less than 18 in/45 cm high and wide. If you want an upright plant to 36 in/1 m tall, tie long branches to sturdy stakes.

Flowering maple (Abutilon)

TROUBLESHOOTING

Plant does not bloom.

CAUSE: Not enough light, or needs additional fertilizer.

REMEDY: Move plant to a place where it will get bright natural light half the day. Switch to a high-phosphorous fertilizer. Some plants bloom very little in winter, but vigorous hybrids should bloom year-round with good light and regular feeding.

Flowers and low leaves drop.

CAUSE: Uneven watering, resulting in some roots remaining dry; too much direct sun.

REMEDY: Rehydrate pot as described on page 328. In summer, move plant to a place where it will be protected from hot midday and afternoon sun.

Sticky leaves; small insects present on leaves.

CAUSE: Aphids.

REMEDY: Prune plant to remove badly infested leaves. Clean thoroughly with plenty of water every 3 days for 2 weeks. See page 269 for more information on controlling this pest.

Leaves are pale and stippled with yellow dots; faint webbing on leaf undersides.

CAUSE: Spider mites.

REMEDY: Isolate plant, and prune off and dispose of badly infested leaves. Clean undersides of remaining leaves with warm, soapy water. Mist daily for a week and see if plant shows signs of recovery. If plant has a stem that is not infested, attempt to propagate its tip, because seriously damaged plants may not be worth saving.

Anthurium

FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA

Anthurium hybrids an-THUR-i-um

ANTHURIUM, FLAMINGO FLOWER

THE COLORFUL, WAXY, HEART-SHAPED SPATHES of anthurium, which are often seen in cut-flower arrangements, are the reward for growing this tropical plant. Older anthuriums were temperamental, but advances in breeding in the last few decades have resulted in plants that are much more lush, compact, and willing to flower. Blooms, which are really bracts, last for up to 8 weeks, and many vigorous hybrids bloom nearly year-round, taking a brief break in winter. Very compact plants grow to only 12 in/30 cm tall, but larger ones may grow to 18 in/45 cm tall and wide. Flower colors include white, orange, and pink.

Flamingo flower (Anthurium hybrid)

Do provide ample humidity by keeping your anthurium on a tray filled with damp pebbles or in a room with a humidifier. To keep leaves glossy and free of pests, wipe leaves clean from time to time with a damp cloth or clean plant with a fine spray of warm water. Do not allow pets to chew on anthurium foliage, as it contains calcium oxalate crystals and several toxic proteins that can cause severe mouth burning or skin irritation in all mammals, including humans.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Plant does not bloom.

CAUSE: Young age; too little light; too much nitrogen fertilizer.

REMEDY: Plants do not bloom until they are about 1 year old. To promote bud formation, move plant to a bright place, such as filtered light from a south or west window. After buds open, move plant to lower light. Check the fertilizer analysis to make sure the second number (phosphorous) is higher than the first one (nitrogen).

Leaves turn yellow.

CAUSE: Overwatering.

REMEDY: Check drainage holes to make sure they are not plugged by debris. Water less, and consider repotting plant using a peaty soil mix that includes perlite. Anthuriums need a little air around their roots.

Lower leaves are yellow with brown tips.

CAUSE: Overfertilization.

REMEDY: Leach pot as described on page 263. Resume feeding after a month, mixing fertilizer at half the normal strength. Brown leaf tips without yellowing may be a sign of extremely dry air. In this case, increase humidity.

Small insects flit about at soil’s surface.

CAUSE: Fungus gnats.

REMEDY: Allow surface to dry between waterings. See page 270 for other control measures for this pest.

Aphelandra

FAMILY: ACANTHACEAE ORIGIN: BRAZIL

Aphelandra squarrosa
ah-fee-LAN-druh squar-OH-sa

ZEBRA PLANT, SAFFRON SPIKE

APHELANDRA’S GLOSSY GREEN LEAVES marked with bold white leaf veins are reason enough to grow this plant, which matures into a 4-foot-tall, evergreen shrub in its tropical homeland of Brazil. Potted plants usually grow to no more than 15 in/38 cm tall and are best kept in pots no larger than 6 in/15 cm in diameter. Most people obtain a blooming aphelandra, which shows a lovely cluster of yellow bracts from which emerge delicate, yellow, tubular flowers. The flowers last only a few days, but the bracts often persist for 4 to 8 weeks. After the bracts deteriorate, clip them off and allow the plant to rest in a cool room for about 2 months. As light becomes more abundant in late spring, move plant to a bright place near a south or west window, but not in direct sunlight. Or, shift it to a shady porch or patio. When exposed to bright light for 3 months, aphelandra will usually rebloom in the fall, its natural bloom season. Light intensity rather than day length triggers flowering. A zebra plant may not bloom when kept in low light, but it will earn its place with its exotic foliage.

Zebra plant (Aphelandra squarrosa)

TROUBLESHOOTING

Leaves become crinkled or curled.

CAUSE: Too much light.

REMEDY: Move plant to a shadier location.

Growing tips wilt.

CAUSE: Soil too dry.

REMEDY: Aphelandra requires constant moisture, which can be a challenge in summer when the plant is kept in bright light. Rehydrate pots that may have dried out in the center (see page 328). This often happens with rootbound plants grown in a peaty potting mix.

Lowest leaves wilt and drop off.

CAUSE: Too dry; too wet; excessive fertilizer.

REMEDY: Maintain constant moisture and reduce strength of fertilizer solution. Leach pots to remove possible accumulated salts (see page 263).

Small yellow spots on leaves; tiny flying insects are present.

CAUSE: Whitefly.

REMEDY: Isolate plant and install sticky traps as described on page 278.

Plant is weak; grows slowly; small flying insects present.

CAUSE: Fungus gnats.

REMEDY: The moist, peaty soil aphelandra prefers is attractive to this irritating pest. Keep soil slightly dry for several days, then trap larvae with potato pieces as described on page 271.

White cottony masses on stems.

CAUSE: Mealybug.

REMEDY: Remove mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol or vegetable oil. Follow other control measures described on page 273.

Small sucking insects on leaf undersides and new leaves.

CAUSE: Aphids.

REMEDY: Clean plant thoroughly with water, then spray with insecticidal soap. See other control measures on page 269.

Begonias

Begonias

NAMED AFTER SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY, French-born plantsman Michel Begon, the begonia family includes more than 900 species, and there are ten times that many named hybrids. Most begonias grown as houseplants come from tropical regions, so they are warm-natured plants. All begonias have fleshy stems and lopsided leaves, with half of the leaf larger than the other half. Leaves vary in shape from elongated hearts to pointed, ivylike forms, and some begonias have rounded leaves with scalloped edges. Begonia flowers are either male or female. The male flowers tend to be short lived, while the female flowers persist for weeks as enclosures for winged seedpods.

Angel-wing begonia (Begonia × corallina)

Numerous “outdoor” begonias can be grown indoors for short periods, including the wax begonias used as indestructible bedding plants in the summer garden, and tuberous begonias, often grown in hanging baskets kept outdoors in shady areas. Yet three types of begonia make superior houseplants: angel-wing begonias, fancy-leafed begonias, and winter-blooming begonias. Each type is discussed in detail on pages 12–14, since each has unique characteristics.

Caring for Begonias

Begonias vary in size, longevity, and their most remarkable features. Angel-wing begonias make wonderful houseplants, since they produce showy leaves and pretty flowers. They are also reasonably long lived and easy to propagate by rooting stem cuttings. Fancy-leafed begonias are more challenging to grow, but their stained-glass leaves are among the most painterly plants in existence. Most people use winter-blooming begonias as short-lived color plants for winter windowsills. When the last flowers fade, you can discard the plants or keep them long enough to propagate new plants from rooted stem cuttings.

Light: Begonias need moderate light in summer, so they fare well when grown near an east window or under fluorescent lights. Those that bloom benefit from increased light in winter, when they perform best near a south or west window.

Temperature: Protect plants from chilling, as they are easily damaged by temperatures below 55°F/13°C. A temperature range of 65–75°F/18–24°C is ideal for most begonias.

Fertilizer: A steady diet of liquid fertilizer diluted to half the normal strength will keep begonias happy. Feed plants every 2 weeks while they are actively growing. Flowering begonias benefit from a high-phosphorous plant food. With fancy-leafed begonias, a balanced plant food is fine.

Water: Begonias are easily damaged by overwatering, yet they also suffer when their soil becomes extremely dry. Watering practices vary slightly with begonia type, but as a general practice it is prudent to allow the top inch of soil to become nearly dry between waterings. Begonias need moderate to high humidity. Make use of trays filled with dampened pebbles or use a humidifier in areas where you grow begonias. Avoid frequent misting, which can lead to problems with powdery mildew. Because of their need for humidity, begonias are good plants to grow in the same room with orchids, bromeliads, or ferns.

Soil: Provide begonias with a peaty yet well-drained soilless mix, such as African violet soil. Many good-quality potting soils that include perlite, which lightens the mix texture, are satisfactory for these plants. Heavy soil that dries slowly is not a good choice for begonias.

Repotting: Begonias often are sorted according to their root types, which can be fibrous or tuberous or include a thick rhizome that spreads over the surface of the soil. Root type influences container size and shape. Angel-wing begonias have fibrous roots and grow best when slightly rootbound in smallish pots. Most fancy-leafed selections develop rhizomes that grow near the soil’s surface, so the best containers for them are broad and shallow. Winter-blooming begonias usually need no repotting unless you want to shift them to a more decorative container.

Be careful not to plant any begonia in a large pot, as this can lead to problems with overwatering and root rot. After repotting, tap on the sides of the pot to tamp soil into place, but do not press it down hard with your fingers. A bit of air left in the potting mix is good for begonias.

Winter-blooming begonia (Begoni × hiemalis)

Propagating: All begonias can be propagated by setting stem tip cutting to root in a warm, humid environment. Fancy-leafed types can be propagated from petiole leaf cuttings, as is done with African violets (see page 302). They have the further distinction of being the only commonly grown houseplants that will develop plantlets when a leaf is pinned to the surface of dampened seed-starting mix. Although interesting, this method is slow compared to rooting petiole leaf cuttings, and not nearly as dependable. Some begonias can also be grown from seed, though hybrids are best propagated vegetatively, by rooting stem cuttings or leaves.

Small details: Begonias often react badly to changes in their environment, so it is wise to provide special care when bringing a new one into your home or office. Buy from a local source if possible, or purchase a small plant if it must be shipped. Reputable suppliers will ship plants only in warm weather. When you get the plant home, protect it from exposure to drafts and dryness by enclosing it in a loose plastic bag for a few days. Babying the plant along during its first few weeks in its new location can make a dramatic difference in a begonia’s short- and long-term welfare.

Pruned stems from angel-wing begonias make good cut flowers.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Leaves turn yellow or brown and fall off.

CAUSE: Overwatering.

REMEDY: Keep plants in small pots and water only after the surface becomes dry. Cool conditions and oversized pots contribute to this problem.

Tan spots on leaves; plants rot at the base.

CAUSE: Botrytis, a fungal disease.

REMEDY: If possible, remove affected leaves and propagate new plants from clean stem tip cuttings. This disease is common with rooted cuttings, and is best prevented by using a clean, pathogen-free rooting medium.

Spots with yellow halos on leaves.

CAUSE: Bacterial leaf spot.

REMEDY: On angel-wing and fancy-leafed begonias, remove affected leaves and increase air circulation. Dispose of infected winter-blooming begonias, as they carry this disease throughout their systems.

Flowers twisted and distorted, especially on winter-blooming begonias.

CAUSE: Thrips or mites.

REMEDY: See page 276 and check for presence of thrips. If present, pinch off affected leaves and buds and dispose of them. With good care, plants should rebloom in a few weeks. Mites are a more persistent pest. If flowers and new leaves are distorted, but no thrips are present, assume mites are the problem and dispose of the infested plant.

White powdery patches on leaves.

CAUSE: Powdery mildew, a fungal disease.

REMEDY: Remove affected leaves at the first sign of this disease. Increase air circulation around the plants. Older leaves are more susceptible than young ones, so propagating new plants annually is a good preventive strategy.

White cottony creatures on stems and leaves.

CAUSE: Mealybugs.

REMEDY: Isolate plant, and remove mealybugs by hand using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat every 5 days until problem is controlled. Do not use oil sprays on begonias to control mealybugs or other pests.

Leaves of fancy-leafed begonias become pale and brittle.

CAUSE: Excessive light; dry air.

REMEDY: Move plant to a spot with reduced light and increase humidity. When new leaves appear with good color, propagate a few to grow a new plant.

Fancy-leafed begonias show mesmerizing variegation patterns.

Begonias

FAMILY: BEGONIACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTH AMERICA

Begonia × corallina, other species and hybrids be-GO-nee-uh ko-ra-LEE-nuh

ANGEL-WING BEGONIA, CANE BEGONIA

WITH MARVELOUSLY MARKED LEAVES and elegant pendant flower clusters, angel-wing begonias are the best types to grow as house-plants. There are dozens of species and named hybrids, which vary in size, leaf variegation, and flower color. Dwarf selections grow to only 12 in/30 cm and can be kept as table plants, while large ones become nearly shrublike within a few years’ time, often growing more than 36 in/90 cm tall and wide. Bloom time varies with cultivar, but most angel-wings bloom best in late winter and spring. The varieties named below are among the strongest rebloomers, often producing several flushes of flowers at different times of year.

Angel-wing begonia (Begonia × corallina)