How to Grill

In 1975, a young man fresh out of college had grand dreams of becoming a food writer. He applied for—and to his great astonishment received—a fellowship to study medieval cooking in Europe. This book is dedicated with appreciation to the Thomas J. Watson Foundation, which helped turn a dream into a life’s work.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION
Why I Wrote This Book

GETTING STARTED

The Different Ways to Grill

Grilling on a Charcoal Grill

Grilling on a Gas Grill

Heat Control

Other Grills

Some Final Tips

Basic Ingredients and Preparations

BEEF AND VEAL

How to Grill a Prime Rib

HICKORY-SMOKED PRIME RIB

How to Grill a Stuffed Rib Roast

RIB ROAST STUFFED WITH CHORIZO AND CHEESE

How to Smoke a Brisket

LEAN AND MEAN TEXAS BARBECUED BRISKET

How to Grill a Whole Beef Tenderloin

HERB-CRUSTED GRILLED BEEF TENDERLOIN

How to Make Churrasco

CHURRASCO WITH THREE-HERB CHIMICHURRI

How to Grill a Porterhouse Steak

TUSCAN-STYLE PORTERHOUSE STEAK

How to Grill T-Bone Steaks

HELLFIRE STEAKS

How to Grill Strip Steaks

STRIP STEAKS WITH TARRAGON BUTTER

How to Grill Filet Mignon

JUNIPER-FLAVORED FILETS MIGNONS

How to Make London Broil

GINGER-SOY LONDON BROIL

How to Stuff and Grill Flank Steak

CLASSIC MATAMBRE

How to Make Beef Satés

LEMONGRASS BEEF SATES

How to Make a Grilled Beef Salad

ASIAN GRILLED BEEF SALAD

How to Make Beef Fajitas

BEEF FAJITAS

How to Grill Crosscut Short Ribs

ARGENTINEAN RIB STEAKS

How to Smoke Beef Ribs

MEMPHIS-STYLE BEEF RIBS

How to Grill the Perfect Hamburger

HAMBURGERS WITH HERB BUTTER

How to Grill Veal Chops

MARINATED VEAL CHOPS

PORK AND SAUSAGES

How to Make Pulled Pork

NORTH CAROLINA PULLED PORK

How to Make Jerk Pork

JAMAICAN JERK PORK

How to Grill a Stuffed Pork Loin

TAPENADE PORK LOIN

How to Grill Pork Tenderloin

MOJO-MARINATED PORK TENDERLOIN

How to Brine and Grill Pork Chops

BOURBON-BRINED PORK CHOPS

How to Grill Stuffed Pork Chops

GRILLED PORK CHOP “CALZONES”

How to Smoke Spareribs

KANSAS CITY SWEET-AND-SMOKY RIBS

How to Indirect Grill Baby Back Ribs

ASIAN FLAVOR BABY BACK RIBS

How to Rotisserie Grill Ribs

ROTISSERIED BABY BACK RIBS

How to Grill Sausages

BEER-SIMMERED GRILLED SAUSAGES

How to Grill Hot Dogs

“HOT” DOGS

How to Barbecue a Whole Pig

BARBECUED PIG

LAMB

How to Grill a Whole Leg of Lamb

ROAST LEG OF LAMB PROVENÇAL

How to Grill a Butterflied Leg of Lamb

SESAME-GINGER LEG OF LAMB

How to Direct Grill a Rack of Lamb

RACK OF LAMB MARRAKECH

How to Indirect Grill a Rack of Lamb

RACK OF LAMB IN A MUSTARD CRUST

How to Grill Loin Lamb Chops

SICHUAN-SPICED LOIN LAMB CHOPS

How to Grill Rib Lamb Chops Tandoori Style

TANDOORI LAMB CHOPS

How to Grill Shish Kebabs

SAFFRON-LEMON SHISH KEBABS

How to Make Ground Lamb Kebabs

GROUND LAMB KEBABS

How to Grill a Whole Lamb

SPIT-ROASTED LAMB

CHICKEN AND MORE

How to Indirect Grill a Whole Chicken

LEMON-GARLIC CHICKEN

How to Grill a Whole Chicken II

CHICKEN STUFFED WITH FLAVORED BUTTER

How to Rotisserie Grill a Whole Chicken

SESAME FIVE-SPICE ROTISSERIE CHICKEN

How to Grill Chicken on a Beer Can

THE ONE AND ONLY BEER-CAN CHICKEN

How to Grill a Spatchcocked Chicken

SPATCHCOCKED CHICKEN WITH WALNUT-DILL PESTO

How to Grill Half Chickens

GOOD OLD AMERICAN GRILLED CHICKEN

How to Grill Chicken Pieces

SAFFRON-GRILLED CHICKEN

How to Grill Brined Chicken Breasts

GRILLED BRINED CHICKEN BREASTS

How to Grill Stuffed Chicken Breasts

GRILLED STUFFED CHICKEN BREASTS

How to Grill Chicken Breasts Under Bricks

CHICKEN GRILLED UNDER BRICKS

How to Grill Chicken Wings

EAST-WEST BUFFALO WINGS

How to Grill Yakitori

YAKITORI

How to Grill Chicken Satés

CHICKEN SATES

How to Smoke a Turkey

CAJUN-SMOKED TURKEY

How to Grill Turkey Pastrami

TURKEY PASTRAMI

How to Rotisserie Grill Duck

SPIT-ROASTED DUCK WITH CHINESE FLAVORINGS

How to Rotisserie Grill Game Hens

GAME HENS FLAVORED WITH HERBS AND MUSTARD

How to Grill Quail

GRILLED QUAIL WITH PEAR AND PINE NUT SALAD

FISH

How to Grill a Large Whole Fish

WHOLE SALMON WITH LEMON AND DILL

How to Grill Small Whole Fish

FRENCH WEST INDIAN SNAPPER

How to Grill Fish on the Skin

SALMON WITH MUSTARD GLAZE

How to Grill Fish Fillets

GARLIC HALIBUT

How to Grill Fish Steaks

BASIL-GRILLED TUNA WITH ARUGULA SALAD

How to Grill Fish in Leaves

BLUEFISH IN BANANA LEAVES

How to Smoke Fish

RUM-SMOKED SALMON

SHELLFISH

How to Grill Shrimp

BRAZILIAN COCONUT SHRIMP KEBABS

How to Grill Shrimp in the Shell

NEW ORLEANS-STYLE BARBECUED SHRIMP

How to Grill Shrimp on a Stick Two Ways

BACON-BASIL SHRIMP ON A STICK AND SHRIMP ON SUGARCANE WITH MOUNT GAY RUM GLAZE

How to Grill a Whole Lobster Two Ways

GRILLED LOBSTER AND GRILLED SPLIT LOBSTER

How to Grill Lobster Tails

SPINY LOBSTERS WITH CILANTRO AND LIME

How to Grill Soft-Shell Crabs

SOFT-SHELL CRABS WITH TARRAGON TARTAR SAUCE

How to Grill Scallops on Rosemary Skewers

ROSEMARY-GRILLED SCALLOPS

How to Grill Oysters

OYSTERS WITH WASABI WHIPPED CREAM

How to Grill Clams and Mussels

SHELLFISH WITH SESAME-CILANTRO BUTTER

VEGETABLES PLUS

How to Grill Asparagus

SESAME-GRILLED ASPARAGUS

How to Barbecue Cabbage

BARBECUED CABBAGE

How to Grill Corn

GRILLED CORN

How to Grill Whole Eggplants

GRILLED EGGPLANT DIP

How to Grill Eggplant Slices

EGGPLANT SLICES WITH CAPRESE “SALSA”

How to Grill Lettuce

LETTUCES WITH VENETIAN SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE

How to Grill Mushrooms

MEXICAN MUSHROOM MIXED GRILL

How to Grill Portobello Mushrooms

PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH GARLIC, PARMESAN, AND PINE NUTS

How to Grill Onions and Garlic

ONION MIXED GRILL

How to Grill Peppers

GRILLED PEPPER SALAD

How to Smoke Roast Potatoes

SMOKED POTATOES

How to Roast Sweet Potatoes in the Embers

EMBER-ROASTED SWEET POTATOES WITH MAPLE-CINNAMON BUTTER

How to Grill Tomatoes

GARLIC GRILLED TOMATOES

How to Grill Zucchini and Yellow Squash

ZUCCHINI AND YELLOW SQUASH WITH GREEK SPICES

How to Grill in Foil Packets

ASIAN-FLAVORED VEGETABLES GRILLED IN FOIL PACKETS

How to Grill Quesadillas

GRILLED QUESADILLAS

How to Grill Pizza

GRILLED PIZZA

How to Grill Tofu

TANGERINE TERIYAKI TOFU

How to Grill Garlic Bread

GRILLED GARLIC PARSLEY CHEESE BREAD

DESSERTS

How to Grill Pineapples and Other Fruit

COCONUT-GRILLED PINEAPPLE

How to Fire Roast Pears and Other Fruit

SMOKE-ROASTED PEARS

How to Grill Crème Brûlée

CHIPOTLE CREMES BRULEES

How to Make S’mores

SHORTBREAD S’MORES

RUBS, SAUCES, AND CONDIMENTS

How to Make Rubs

BASIC BARBECUE RUB

BASIC FISH CURE

CAJUN RUB

CHINESE FIVE-SPICE RUB

JAVA RUB

MEDITERRANEAN HERB RUB

MUCHO MACHO PEPPER RUB

SESAME SEASONING

TEXAS CHILI RUB

How to Make Mop Sauces

BASIC BARBECUE MOP SAUCE

How to Make Barbecue Sauces

BASIC BARBECUE SAUCE

HOISIN BARBECUE SAUCE

MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE

NORTH CAROLINA VINEGAR SAUCE

How to Make Flavored Butters

TARRAGON BUTTER

GARLIC-HERB BUTTER

ROASTED GARLIC BUTTER

Stand-Alone Sauces

BEARNAISE MAYONNAISE

GORGONZOLA SAUCE

WHITE BARBECUE SAUCE

MUSTARD SAUCE

MUSTARD-DILL SAUCE

WASABI WHIPPED CREAM

HERBED HORSERADISH SAUCE

ASIAN PEANUT SAUCE

ASIAN PEAR DIPPING SAUCE

VIETNAMESE DIPPING SAUCE

THREE-HERB CHIMICHURRI

PICO DE GALLO

TOMATO-PEPPER SALSA

SALSA VERDE

MANGO SALSA

CILANTRO CHUTNEY

CUCUMBER RELISH

SHALLOT MARMALADE

Conversion Table

GRILLS AND GEAR

Grills

CHARCOAL GRILLS:

TUSCAN GRILL

HIBACHI

KETTLE GRILL

BARBECOOK GRILL

CERAMIC COOKER

TABLE GRILL

GAS GRILLS:

INEXPENSIVE GAS GRILL

MIDPRICE GAS GRILL

GAS SUPERGRILL

PSEUDOGRILLS AND SMOKERS:

ELECTRIC GRILL

GRILL PAN

VERTICAL WATER SMOKER

HORIZONTAL BARREL SMOKER

Grilling Gear

Starters, Fuels, and Smoking Materials

Mail-Order Sources

General Index

Recipe Index

GETTING STARTED

The Different Ways to Grill

Grilling on a Charcoal Grill

Grilling on a Gas Grill

Heat Control

Other Grills

Some Final Tips

Basic Ingredients and Preparations

Nothing brings out flavor like grilling: the sanguine taste of beef, the briny succulence of seafood, the natural sweetness of vegetables. The smoke and charring associated with grilling add a depth of flavor unattainable by any other cooking method.

Perhaps that’s why interest in grilling is skyrocketing, fueled by innovative new grills, ingenious new accessories, and our continuing lust for bold flavors. Grilling is healthy; grilling is theatrical; and it’s a magnet for people when you entertain. Show me a man or woman who is comfortable behind a grill and I’ll show you a seasoned showman, a consummate host, and a cook who has the guts to put his or her money where his or her mouth is.

This book is designed to take the uncertainty out of grilling. In the following pages you’ll learn how to light a fire safely—with any luck on the first try. You’ll learn how to control any fire—charcoal, wood, or gas—so that it will give you a steady, reliable source of heat. You’ll learn how to master the basics—direct and indirect grilling—as well as specialized techniques, such as smoking, rotisserie grilling, and roasting in the embers. And you’ll learn about the various grills, accessories, fuels, rubs, and seasonings you need to make perfect grilled, barbecued, and smoked food every time.

Setting the Stage

Most Americans know something about barbecuing and grilling (according to Barbecue Industry Association figures, 85 percent of American families own grills and fire them up more than 3 billion times a year). But everyone has to start somewhere, so imagine for a moment that you’ve never used a grill or even owned one before.

Grills are available in every imaginable size, shape, style, and price range. Before you can choose a grill, however, you need to consider your cooking habits. Do you usually just cook for yourself and perhaps a companion or do you like to share your culinary prowess with large numbers of friends? This will help you decide what size grill to buy. Do you tend to cook the same three dishes over and over or are you an adventurer? (I hope you will be after reading this book!) This will tell you whether to buy a basic no-frills model or a grill with all the latest bells and whistles. Are you convenience and result oriented, focusing on the outcome over the process? Or is the journey of live-fire cooking just as exciting to you as the ultimate destination? (And what’s your tolerance for uncertainty?) This will help you make the most important decision facing the fledgling griller: whether to buy a gas grill or a charcoal grill.

I’d like to share one tip with you here: If you’re mechanically minded, few things are more satisfying than assembling a grill out of the box. If you’re all thumbs, most hardware stores will assemble the grill for you for a modest fee, or you may even be able to save time and money by buying a floor model.

Before I begin grilling, I make sure my grill is on level ground and all the fuel and utensils I’ll need are close at hand.

The Perfect Spot

Once you have your grill assembled, the next thing to decide is where to put it. A patio or deck makes a logical choice—preferably near a door off your kitchen. (Most of your prep work will take place in the kitchen and that’s where you’ll find that basting brush or bottle of barbecue sauce you should have remembered to bring outdoors but didn’t.)

A grill puts out a lot of heat, so you should position it several feet away from the side of the house (especially one with wooden shingles) or any plants or shrubbery. You’ll have an easier time with heat and smoke control if you choose a spot with good ventilation, but that’s sheltered from the wind. (However, it’s axiomatic that wherever you place the grill, the smoke will blow in your face.)

The grill should rest securely on level ground—even if it’s on the grass in your backyard. When positioning a grill on a wooden deck, remember that sparks and live embers can fall from a charcoal grill (and fat can drip from a gas grill). Place a large, heavy sheet of metal under the grill or use a patio protector, like the one manufactured by DiversiTech (see page 474). Never operate a grill indoors, in a garage, or in a carport. Grills put out carbon monoxide, which is toxic. For that matter, it’s not a good idea to grill under a trellis, arbor, or low-canopied tree.

It helps to have a counter or table near your grill (it’s my experience you can never have enough workspace when grilling). An outdoor sink, garden hose, or bowl of water is always useful for washing your hands during grilling. Don’t underestimate the importance of a good light source after sundown. It can make all the difference between recognizing when food is cooked or when it’s still raw or burned beyond redemption. Try to position your grill to take advantage of the best light on your patio or invest in a grill light (see page 474). It’s handy also to have an electric outlet nearby to plug in the light or your rotisserie.

As grill mania sweeps the country, the simple backyard barbecue grill is being replaced by elaborate outdoor kitchens, complete with sinks and built-in refrigerators. The latter are handy for keeping meats and drinks cold, but you can also use a large cooler filled with ice. You may want to invest in a couple of large new plastic garbage bins with tight-fitting lids for storing your charcoal, wood chips, and even grill accessories (I currently have three). For that matter, a clean garbage can can be converted into an outdoor refrigerator for large quantities of meat or even a whole lamb or salmon simply by filling it with ice.

An Important Note About Safety

Most important of all, of course, is to never, ever leave a lit grill unattended. Second in importance is to have a dry chemical fire extinguisher on hand (see page 472). Make sure it’s fully charged and current (someone at your local fire department will be able to check this for you) and make sure you know how to use it. Also handy are a bucket of sand (for dumping over a ground fire) and a box of coarse salt (for sprinkling over a grease fire in your grill). When shutting down a gas grill, shut off the gas at the tank as well as the burner. At the start of every season you should run a little fire drill. I hope you never need it, but at least you’ll be prepared if you do.

Let me also say a few words about what you shouldn’t have close to your grill: The short list includes small children, pets, and flammables. You don’t want a hyperactive four-year-old or golden retriever knocking over your fire. If you use lighter fluid to ignite your coals (on page 8 I’ll show you some great alternatives to petroleum starters), store the can far away from the fire.

I also have some thoughts on what to wear—and I’m not just talking about your “Kiss the Chef” apron. Always wear closed shoes, not sandals, to protect your feet from dripping grease or falling cinders. If you have long hair, it’s a good idea to tie it back. When grilling during the daytime, wear a hat and sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun. I won’t tell you not to wear shorts and a T-shirt (after all, this is barbecue), but I will observe that many serious grill jockeys I know wear long-sleeve shirts and long pants—again for protection from heat and sparks. You should have on hand some thick grill gloves, oven mitts, or pot holders. Finally, that apron will help you stay clean. If you want to look like a pro, tie the apron around your waist with the bib portion folded down and inside so it covers your legs (professional chefs never wear bib aprons). I like to tuck one or two clean dish towels into the apron ties—these are handy for wiping your fingers or mopping up spills.

The Mise en Place

While we’re on the subject of chefs, there are three words used in every professional kitchen that are essential for master grilling: mise en place. The mise (as it’s affectionately referred to in American kitchens) refers to the basic setup of ingredients and equipment you need at grillside before you start cooking.

A typical mise en place for a barbecue would include your fuel (extra charcoal or propane and soaked wood chips); your tools (grill brush, tongs, spatula, basting brush or mop, grill gloves or pot holders, a cutting board and knives for carving, platters or plates for serving); and your ingredients (salt, pepper, and seasonings in shakers; bastes and butters in bowls; sauces in bowls or squirt bottles; and, of course, the food to be grilled—on ice if necessary). You might want to have a bowl or bucket of sudsy water nearby for hand washing.

Use a grill brush on a hot grate to dislodge burnt-on food.

A WORD ABOUT CLEANLINESS

A certain editor I know (bless her) used to scrub her grill grate with Brillo until it shone like silver. More than one bubba I’ve seen on the barbecue circuit cooks in a smoker so encrusted with grease and grime, it’s a wonder it’s not condemned by the local health department. So how clean should your grill be? I suggest a happy medium.

THE GRATE: The grate is the part of the grill that comes in direct contact with the food, so it should be clean. Fortunately, this is as simple as bringing it up to grilling temperature when you preheat the grill and then scrubbing it with a dry stiff wire brush before adding the food. The heat loosens any burnt-on scraps and sterilizes the grate, while the brush removes the debris. There’s no need to scrub the metal with abrasives or soap. On the contrary: You season a grate, by using it and brushing it clean (washing is unnecessary).

I clean my grill grate twice: once before putting the food on and again after grilling. The latter is especially important when you grill fish. Run the grill until any cooked-on bits of food or oils are burnt off, and then clean the grate with your wire brush. With a gas grill simply let it continue burning for 15 to 30 minutes. With a charcoal grill, you may need to rake the partially depleted coals into a pile to concentrate the heat. (Never extinguish used coals with water. Simply cover the grill and close all the vents or uncover the grill and open all the vents and let the coals burn out.) Should the coals burn out before the grill grate is clean, hose it down with water and scrub off any burnt-on pieces with a wire brush. Dry it with paper towels to prevent rusting.

THE FIREBOX: In general, the firebox (the metal bowl of a kettle grill or rectangular box of a gas grill) will clean itself in the process of grilling. Of course, any bits of food that have fallen through the bars of the grate or pools of congealed fat should be shoveled out with a garden trowel. One thing you should clean often is the catch pan, or drip pan, for grease. In terms of more long-term maintenance, barbecue shops sell heavy-duty grill cleaners you can use for removing a season’s worth of soot.

The Countdown

More than with virtually any other type of cooking, time management is key to successful barbecuing and grilling. This is especially true when working with charcoal: You need to budget time to light the coals and let them burn down to the proper temperature before you start cooking. That doesn’t include the time you need for rubbing and marinating, smoking, or letting the meat rest before carving or pulling. And because you’re cooking, and often serving, outdoors, allow extra time for setting up your cooking and dining area.

Here’s a basic timetable that will help you get your grill lit, your food rubbed, marinated, and cooked, and your guests served—without having a nervous breakdown.

AT THE BEGINNING OF BARBECUE SEASON (if you’re not a year-round griller): Take the grill out of your garage or basement. If you are using a gas grill, make sure there are no spiders or cobwebs under the burner knobs or in the grill manifolds (dislodge any you may find with a slender bamboo skewer). If any of the tiny pinholes on the burner tubes are clogged, unclog them with a pin. Make sure the burner valves turn freely: If any feel stuck, spray in a little WD-40. Check that all connections are tight and that there are no holes or worn spots in any of the hoses. And most important: Follow all of the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions.

THE DAY BEFORE YOUR BARBECUE: Rub or marinate large cuts of meat, like briskets and pork shoulders. Marinate them overnight in a nonreactive (glass or stainless steel) pan or bowl or even in a clean garbage bag in the refrigerator. Turn the meat several times to ensure even marinating. If using a gas grill, fill the propane tank and one or two backup tanks. If using a charcoal grill, buy a few extra bags of charcoal. Prepare side dishes that aren’t time sensitive, such as baked beans or coleslaw.

THE MORNING BEFORE YOUR BARBECUE: Rub or marinate medium-size cuts of meat, such as chickens or whole fish. Make your sauces. If you’re smoking large cuts of meat, you may need as many as 6 to 8 hours for smoking. Soak the wood chips an hour before you plan to start and light your grill or smoker accordingly.

THE AFTERNOON BEFORE YOUR BARBECUE: