Milk Street Noodles

In a small bowl or a measuring cup, mix together the salt and warm water until the salt dissolves. Put the flour in a large bowl, add half of the salt water and mix with a wooden spoon until the water is absorbed. Add the remaining saltwater and mix, using your hands once the water has been absorbed, until a very shaggy dough forms. If the mixture is very dry and won’t come together, mix in additional water 1 tablespoon at a time, but it’s better to err on the side of too little water than too much. Transfer to a 1-gallon heavy-duty zip-close bag, press out the air and partially seal the bag; let rest for 30 minutes.

Place the bag with the dough inside another 1-gallon zip-close bag, press out the air and partially seal. Lay the bag on the floor and repeatedly step on the dough with your feet, being careful not to tear or puncture the plastic, until the dough is flattened and fills the bag to the edges. Remove the dough from the bag and set it on the counter. Fold it into thirds like a business letter, return it to the inner bag and partially seal both bags. Repeat the process 4 more times, until the dough is very smooth and elastic; after the fifth pressing, leave the dough flat (do not fold it into thirds). Seal the bags and let the dough rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour or refrigerate for up to 1 day (if refrigerated, let the dough stand at room temperature for about 1 hour before proceeding).

Lightly dust a rimmed baking sheet and the counter with cornstarch. Remove the dough from the bags and set it on the counter. Using a chef’s knife, cut the dough in half. Return one piece to the inner bag and seal it. Using a rolling pin, roll out the second piece until it is ⅛ inch thick. The shape of the rolled dough doesn’t matter; it’s more important that the dough be of an even thickness. Dust the surface of the dough with cornstarch, then accordion-fold the dough into thirds; set it on a cutting board. Using a chef’s knife and a decisive cutting motion (do not use a sawing action), cut the dough crosswise into ⅛-inch-wide noodles. Unfold the noodles and transfer them to the prepared baking sheet, gently separating them; toss to lightly coat with cornstarch and cover with a kitchen towel. Roll and cut the remaining dough in the same way.

In a large (at least 8-quart) pot, bring 5 quarts water to a boil. Using your hands, add the noodles to the pot, first shaking them over the baking sheet to remove excess starch. Cook, stirring occasionally, until a noodle rinsed under cold water is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain in a colander, rinse the noodles under cold running water and drain again.

In a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, combine ½ cup water and the oil. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Make a well in the center, then add the liquid. Using a fork, stir in a circular motion, starting in the center and gradually moving outward to incorporate the wet and dry ingredients, until a shaggy dough forms. Using the heel of your palm, begin kneading the dough, swiping along the edges of the bowl to incorporate any dry bits. If the dough resists coming together, add more water, a few drops at a time, until all the flour is just moistened. Knead in the bowl until the dough is smooth and cohesive, about 10 minutes.

Lightly dust the counter with flour and turn the dough out onto it; knead until soft and springy, about 10 minutes. Form into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 hour.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with a kitchen towel and lightly dust with flour. Lightly flour the counter and set the dough on the floured surface. Using a rolling pin and dusting with flour as needed to prevent sticking, roll the dough to an even ⅛- to -inch thickness. (If the dough sheet winds up longer than 16 to 18 inches, cut in half crosswise for slightly shorter lengths.) Dust the surface of the dough with flour, then accordion-fold it into thirds, sprinkling flour between each fold; set it on a cutting board. Using a chef’s knife and a decisive cutting motion (do not use a sawing action), cut the dough crosswise into strips of the desired width. Unfold the noodles and transfer to the prepared baking sheet, gently separating the strands. Dust with flour and toss to lightly coat. If making ahead, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

To cook the noodles, follow the directions in the recipe that you are making, or in a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add the noodles, first shaking them over the baking sheet to remove excess flour. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the noodles are tender, about 5 minutes for thin noodles or up to about 8 minutes for wider ones. Drain, rinse under cold water and drain again.