Cheryl Day's Treasury of Southern Baking

Flaky Butter Biscuits

Pictured here

Biscuits are an icon of Southern baking, and some say it takes a lifetime to learn to make a really good one. To learn the feel of the biscuit dough is a skill that requires experience, but anyone can become a biscuit master if they are willing to put in the practice. Your hands and eyes are your best tools as you mix the dough. For this recipe, you fold and stack the dough to create the flaky layers. How you punch out the biscuits is also important. Never twist the cutter; the biscuits will have more loft if you don't compress and seal the edges. Use any leftover biscuits for lunch or breakfast sandwiches or to make Southern Party Mix.

Makes about 12 biscuits

1½ cups (188 g) cake flour (not self-rising)

4 cups (500 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

4 teaspoons fine sea salt

3½ teaspoons (15 g) baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

1½ teaspoons granulated sugar

½ teaspoon (3 g) baking soda

¾ pound (3 sticks/340 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (1.5 cm) cubes, plus 4 tablespoons (57 g) unsalted butter, melted, for brushing

2 cups (473 ml) buttermilk

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for sprinkling

Special Equipment

2¼-inch (6 cm) biscuit cutter

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together both flours, the fine sea salt, baking powder, sugar, and baking soda. Add the cold butter cubes and toss to coat. Working quickly, cut in the butter with a pastry blender, or pinch the cubes with your fingertips, smearing them into the flour. You should have various-sized pieces of butter ranging from coarse sandy patches to flat shaggy shards to pea-sized chunks. Give the ingredients a good toss with your hands to make sure all the pieces of butter are completely coated in flour.

Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, pour in the buttermilk, and use your hands to mix the dry ingredients into the buttermilk until you have a shaggy dough. Gently turn the dough out onto a clean work surface. The dough should still look crumbly. Now be prepared to get messy! Using the heel of your hand, smear the butter into the flour—that is how you build those flaky layers. Bring the dough together by smearing, folding, and turning it, then repeat until there are no more dry bits of flour remaining and the dough comes together in a mass.

Flour a rolling pin and lightly dust your work surface with flour. Roll the dough into a 12-by-14-inch (30 by 36 cm) rectangle, with a long side toward you. Begin by doing a tri-fold, starting from the right: Fold the right side of the dough over the center and then fold the left side over the first fold, lining up the edges and pressing the layers together. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and roll it out again into a rectangle, then fold the dough in half from the top down, pressing the layers together. Roll the dough out again into a rectangle and fold it in half once more, pressing the layers down again. Then, using a bench scraper or a sharp knife, cut the dough in half and stack the bottom half on the top half, pressing the layers together. Dust the dough lightly with flour, and roll the dough out again into a rectangle about 1 inch (3 cm) thick.

Dip the edges of a 2¼-inch (6 cm) biscuit cutter in flour and punch out the biscuits; do not twist the cutter, or you will seal the layers of the dough you have worked so hard to create, and the biscuits will not rise as high. Make sure to dip the cutter in flour after every cut, and arrange the biscuits 1 inch (3 cm) apart on the prepared baking sheet. Then carefully gather up your scraps, press them together until you have a cohesive mass, roll them out again, and cut more biscuits. The scrap biscuits may bake a little topsy-turvy, but that's okay; they will still be flaky and delicious. (If you don't want to bake all the biscuits at once, you can freeze some on a baking sheet until solid, then wrap and freeze them to bake at a later date. You can bake them directly from the freezer; just give them 5 to 7 extra minutes in the oven.) You can bake the biscuits now or refrigerate them for up to 1 hour before baking.

Brush the tops of the biscuits with the melted butter and give each one a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through for even baking, for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. The biscuits are best served hot out of the oven (you will want to taste one immediately, and give yourself a pat on the back).

If you have any leftovers, store them in an airtight container for up to 1 day. To reheat, place the biscuits on a wire rack in a preheated 350°F (175°C) oven for 5 to 6 minutes. To freeze leftover biscuits, wrap in foil and place in a large ziplock bag. To reheat the biscuits, place the foil-wrapped biscuits in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 18 to 20 minutes, then carefully open the foil and bake for an additional 5 minutes.

Scallion and Cheddar Cathead Biscuits

Pictured here

Southerners are known to give their recipes colorful names. This one is so called because the extra-large drop biscuits are as big as a cat's head. They are crisp and golden on the outside, soft and pillowy inside, and filled with scallions and cheddar cheese and just the right amount of black pepper. They are quick to fix and simple to make—you don't even have to roll out the dough.

Makes about 12 biscuits

1½ cups (188 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1½ cups (188 g) cake flour (not self-rising)

¼ teaspoon granulated sugar

2 tablespoons (26 g) baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

½ pound (2 sticks/227 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (1.5 cm) cubes

½ cup (30 g) chopped scallions

2 cups (8 ounces/227 g) grated sharp cheddar cheese

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ to 2 cups (355 to 473 ml) buttermilk

1 egg, beaten with a pinch of fine sea salt, for egg wash

Special Equipment

3-ounce (89 ml) ice cream scoop

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment.

In a large mixing bowl, combine both flours, the sugar, baking powder, and salt and whisk until completely blended. Add the butter cubes and toss to coat. Working quickly, cut in the butter with a pastry blender, or pinch it with your fingertips, smearing it into the flour. You should have various-sized pieces of butter ranging from coarse sandy patches to flat shaggy pieces to pea-sized chunks, with some larger bits as well. Add the scallions, cheese, and black pepper, tossing to mix well.

Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, pour in 1½ cups (355 ml) of the buttermilk, and gently mix with one hand or a rubber spatula until the mixture is crumbly but starting to come together into a shaggy mass. If the dough still looks too dry during this process, add up to ½ cup (118 ml) more buttermilk. The dough should be moist and slightly sticky.

Finish mixing the dough in the bowl, turning the dough onto itself a few times until it comes together into a mass. (Remember, biscuit making is all about touch, so work gently but with purpose.) Gently pat down the dough until it resembles a loaf of bread. Dust the top of the dough lightly with flour.

Using a 3-ounce (89 ml) ice cream scoop, scoop big mounds of dough onto the prepared baking sheet, arranging them about 1 inch (3 cm) apart so that the biscuits have room to puff up and rise. With lightly floured hands, gently flatten the biscuits.

Lightly brush the tops of the biscuits with the egg wash. Place the biscuits in the oven and bake, rotating the pan halfway through for even baking, for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. Serve hot out of the oven or at room temperature.

Honestly, I can't imagine that you will have any biscuits left over by the end of the day, but if you do, you can store them in an airtight container overnight. To reheat, place the biscuits on a wire rack in a preheated 350°F (175°C) oven for 5 to 6 minutes. To freeze leftover biscuits, wrap in foil and place in a large ziplock bag. To reheat the biscuits, place the foil-wrapped biscuits in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 15 minutes, then carefully open the foil and bake for an additional 5 to 10 minutes.

Heavenly Angel Biscuits

These are as soft as a pillow and as light as a feather; some folks call them Bride Biscuits. They're made with self-rising flour, yeast, and baking soda—a little extra insurance that the biscuits will rise high. Pile these up on a party tray next to the deviled-egg platter, or split and sandwich with a sliver of country ham and a little strawberry jam for a sweet and savory bite.

Makes about 16 biscuits

One ¼-ounce (7 g) package active dry yeast

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

¼ cup (59 ml) warm water

3 cups (375 g) self-rising flour

1 teaspoon (6 g) baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ cup (59 ml) cold vegetable shortening

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (1.5 cm) cubes, plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, for brushing

1 cup (237 ml) buttermilk

Special Equipment

2-inch (5 cm) biscuit cutter

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Lightly butter a baking sheet.

In a small bowl, stir the yeast, sugar, and warm water together. Set the bowl aside in a warm place for about 5 minutes. The mixture will start to bubble, bloom, and lightly foam as the yeast activates.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Add the shortening and cold butter cubes and, working quickly, cut them in with a pastry blender, or pinch them with your fingertips, smearing the butter into the flour. You should have various-sized pieces of butter ranging from coarse sandy patches to flat shaggy shards to pea-sized chunks, with some larger bits as well.

Add the buttermilk and the yeast mixture to the flour mixture and stir with a rubber spatula until the dough just starts to come together. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until it forms a ball. You may need to add just a light dusting of flour to keep the dough from sticking, but do not add more flour than is needed. Less flour and a gentle touch when handling the dough will ensure light and flaky biscuits.

Flour a rolling pin and lightly dust your work surface with flour. Roll the dough out to a 1-inch (3 cm) thickness. Dip the edges of a 2-inch (5 cm) biscuit cutter into flour and punch out the biscuits as close together as possible, without twisting the cutter, making sure to dip the cutter in flour after every cut, and arrange them on the prepared baking sheet: For softer biscuits, place them close together so that they just barely kiss; for crisper biscuits, leave 1 inch (3 cm) between them. Then carefully gather the scraps together, gently roll them out again (just once), and cut more biscuits.

Place the biscuits in the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown. Remove the biscuits from the oven and immediately brush the tops with the melted butter. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Leftover biscuits can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 day. To reheat, place the biscuits on a wire rack in a preheated 350°F (175°C) oven for 5 to 6 minutes. To freeze leftover biscuits, wrap in foil and place in a large ziplock bag. To reheat the biscuits, place the foil-wrapped biscuits in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 18 to 20 minutes, then carefully open the foil and bake for an additional 5 minutes or so.

Sweet Potato Biscuits

Pictured here

Sweet potatoes are a Southern staple. Naturally sweet, they have a great texture and flavor and are loaded with vitamins too. Adding mashed roasted sweet potatoes to biscuit dough raises the bar, lending an appealing caramelized flavor to classic buttermilk biscuits.

Makes about 16 biscuits

2 sweet potatoes

2¼ cups (281 g) cake flour (not self-rising)

6 cups (750 g) unbeached all-purpose flour

1½ tablespoons fine sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (30 g) baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

2½ teaspoons granulated sugar

½ teaspoon (3 g) baking soda

14 ounces (3½ sticks/397 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (1.5 cm) cubes, plus 4 tablespoons (57 g) unsalted butter, melted, for brushing

2 to 2½ cups (473 to 592 ml) buttermilk

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for sprinkling

Special Equipment

2-inch (5 cm) biscuit cutter

To roast the sweet potatoes: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment and spray the parchment with nonstick spray.

Peel the sweet potatoes and cut into 1-inch (3 cm) cubes. Place the cubes on the prepared pan and bake for about 1 hour, until fork-tender.

Transfer the roasted potatoes to a bowl and mash them with a potato masher. Measure out 1½ cups (328 g) for this recipe (any leftovers are yours for snacking) and let cool.

When you are ready to make the biscuits, position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together both flours, the fine sea salt, pepper, baking powder, sugar, and baking soda. Add the cold butter cubes and toss them to coat. Working quickly, cut them in with a pastry blender, or pinch with your fingertips, smearing the butter into the flour. You should have various-sized pieces of butter ranging from coarse sandy patches to flat shaggy pieces to pea-sized chunks, with some larger bits as well.

Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, add the sweet potatoes, and mix with a rubber spatula just to incorporate. Add 1½ cups (355 ml) of the buttermilk, gently mixing with the spatula; the dough will start to look shaggy. Gradually add about ½ cup (118 ml) more buttermilk. Gently mix the ingredients with your hands until you have a shaggy dough.

Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface. Using the heel of your hand, smear the butter into the flour—that is how you build those flaky layers. Bring the dough together by smearing, folding, and turning it, then repeat until there are no more dry bits of flour remaining in the bottom of the bowl and the dough comes together in a mass. If the dough looks dry during this process, add some more of the remaining buttermilk and continue folding until it comes together.

Flour a rolling pin and lightly dust your work surface and the top of the dough with flour. Roll the dough into a 1-inch-thick (3 cm) rectangle. Dip the edges of a 2-inch (5 cm) biscuit cutter into flour and punch out the biscuits (do not twist the cutter, or you will compress the layers of dough and the biscuits will not rise as high) as close together as possible, making sure to dip the cutter in flour after every cut. Arrange on the prepared baking sheet, leaving about 1 inch (3 cm) between them. Then carefully gather the scraps together, gently roll them out again, and cut more biscuits. (You can refrigerate the biscuits for up to 1 hour before baking.)

Brush the tops of the biscuits with the melted butter and sprinkle lightly with flaky sea salt. Place the biscuits in the oven and bake, rotating the pan halfway through for even baking, for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. The biscuits are best served hot out of the oven. Go ahead and add a pat of butter, and watch it melt.

Leftover biscuits can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 day. To reheat, place the biscuits on a wire rack in a preheated 350°F (175°C) oven for 5 to 6 minutes.

Buttermilk Beignets

Pictured here

A visit to New Orleans isn't complete without a stop at the legendary Café du Monde for beignets and coffee. That first bite of soft billowy pastry is a true delight. It's easy enough to fry up some beignets at home. Serve them warm with a heavy dusting of confectioners' sugar and a cup of coffee, and be transported to the Big Easy.

Makes about 24 beignets

3½ cups (438 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

⅓ cup (66 g) granulated sugar

1½ teaspoons (5 g) instant yeast

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

¾ cup (177 ml) water, at room temperature

½ cup (118 ml) buttermilk

1 large (50 g) egg, at room temperature

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Confectioners' sugar for dusting

Special Equipment

Spider skimmer or slotted spoon

Candy or digital thermometer

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and nutmeg. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), mix the water, buttermilk, egg, butter, and vanilla on medium-low speed until combined. Add the flour mixture and mix on medium-low speed until well blended, 2 to 3 minutes. Stop the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then continue to mix for 5 minutes, or until the dough comes together, stopping to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. The dough will be loose and sticky.

Turn the dough out onto a liberally floured work surface and lightly dust the top of the dough with flour. Shape the dough into an 8-inch (20 cm) square. Fold the dough in half, then rotate it a quarter turn and fold it in half again. Repeat two more times, then shape into a ball and place in a large lightly oiled bowl.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place for 1½ to 2 hours, until the dough has doubled in size (timing will depend on your ambient room temperature). The dough will be very soft and slightly sticky.

Doing your best not to deflate the dough, gently turn it out onto a liberally floured work surface. Gently lift and stretch and pat the dough with floured fingers to shape it into a 10-by-16-inch (25 by 40 cm) rectangle about ½ inch (1.5 cm) thick. After this workout, let the dough rest for 2 minutes, then cut the dough into 24 equal squares with a sharp knife or pizza wheel.

Set up your frying station: Line a baking sheet with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Have a spider skimmer or slotted spoon ready. Heat about 3 inches (8 cm) of vegetable oil to 370°F (185°C) in a large heavy-bottomed pot, such as a Dutch oven, or a countertop fryer. Test the oil by dropping in a tiny piece of dough: The oil should sizzle and the dough should brown within 30 to 40 seconds.

Gently add the beignets to the oil: You can fry a few at a time, but be sure not to crowd the pot, or the temperature will drop too much. Fry until puffed and lightly golden on each side, flipping them with the spider or slotted spoon, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove with the skimmer or spoon and place on the prepared pan. Repeat until all the dough has been fried, making sure the oil returns to the proper temperature before adding more.

Dust the beignets liberally with confectioners' sugar and serve piping hot.

Calas

This dainty sugary pastry made with cooked rice and sprinkled with confectioners' sugar is the perfect accompaniment to a cup of café au lait. Legend has it that these rice fritters became the currency of freedom for many African Creole women, who carried linen-covered bowls or baskets of them on their heads after church as they roamed the streets of New Orleans calling, "Belle calas, tout chauds!" (Beautiful calas, still hot!)

Makes about 16 calas

¼ cup (32 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons rice flour

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoons (9 g) baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

1½ teaspoons fine sea salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

6 cups (1.4 L) cold water

1 cup (185 g) Carolina Gold rice

2 large (100 g) eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Confectioners' sugar for dusting

Special Equipment

Candy or digital thermometer

1-ounce (30 ml) ice cream scoop

Spider skimmer or slotted spoon

In a small bowl, whisk together both flours, the sugar, baking powder, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the nutmeg. Set aside.

Place the water and rice in a medium saucepan and stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat, then lower the heat and cook at a gentle boil for about 15 minutes, until the rice is tender. Drain the rice and set aside to cool.

In a medium bowl, combine the cooked rice, eggs, and vanilla and gently mix together, being careful not to mash the rice too much. Gently fold in the dry ingredients.

Set up your frying station: Line a baking sheet with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Have a spider skimmer or slotted spoon ready. Heat about 3 inches (8 cm) of vegetable oil to 375°F (190°C) in a large heavy-bottomed pot, such as a Dutch oven, or a countertop fryer. You can test the oil by dropping in a tiny piece of dough: The oil should sizzle and the dough should brown within 30 to 40 seconds.

Use a 1-ounce (30 ml) ice cream scoop to portion a few fritters onto the skimmer or spoon and carefully lower them into the oil. Work in small batches to avoid crowding, so the temperature of the oil does not drop too much. Fry, turning the calas occasionally for even cooking, until golden brown on all sides, about 3 minutes. Using the skimmer or spoon, transfer the calas to the paper towels to drain. Make sure the oil returns to 375°F (190°C) before cooking each successive batch.

Dust the calas generously with confectioners' sugar and serve hot.

Popovers

You may be surprised at how easy popovers are to make. Keep in mind that it's fine if the batter looks a little lumpy; avoid overmixing, and the batter will smooth out as it bakes.

Makes 12 popovers

1½ cups (355 ml) whole milk, at room temperature

3 large (150 g) eggs, at room temperature

1½ cups (188 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1¼ teaspoons flaky sea salt, such as Maldon

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

½ cup (55 g) finely grated Gruyère cheese

Butter for serving

Special Equipment

12-well popover pan, preferably nonstick

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Place a 12-well popover pan in the oven to preheat.

In a large bowl, vigorously whisk the milk and eggs until frothy, about 1 minute. Add the flour and salt and whisk until incorporated (there will still be some small lumps in the batter, and that's fine). Stir in the shallots and cheese.

Remove the hot popover pan from the oven and spray with nonstick spray (even if the pan is nonstick). Fill each well two-thirds full with batter.

Bake the popovers for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C) and bake for another 20 to 25 minutes, until they are puffed and golden brown.