Mr. Wilkinson's Fall and Winter Vegetables

(BRASSICA OLERACEA GEMMIFERA)

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

If you have ever seen a Brussels sprout plant growing you would undoubtedly think it was the ugliest, wartiest looking specimen you’ve ever seen, and not something at all edible. You look at its bizarre trunk with countless little green knobs growing from it and think, “God, what is that? It’s a cabbage gone wrong!” And, well, it is.

RECIPES

MASHED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH MINT, BEST END OF LAMB

ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS, VANILLA-CONFIT CHESTNUTS & THYME

SALAD OF BRUSSELS SPROUT LEAVES, MOZZARELLA, WHITE ANCHOVIES

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

So why Brussels sprouts? Well, the obvious answer seems to be “because that’s where they came from,” but there isn’t a lot of evidence to support that statement, although they are popular in Belgium. They probably did originate in Europe and, much like most things, the Romans spread them throughout the continent.

They are a cultivar, or cultivated variety, of the cabbage, which means they were grown and bred from the cabbage specifically for their smaller heads until they became a sub-species in their own right. So there you go. There’s no need to be afraid of the Brussels sprout—they’re just a mini cabbage.

A MUCH MALIGNED VEG

Brussels sprouts are part of the Brassica family and closely related to cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and kale. It’s a real “love it” or “hate it” veg, and, out of all its cousins, poor sprouts probably have the worst reputation. And a wholly undeserved one, in my opinion.

It is a beautiful delicate little vegetable, and I have always loved it. I remember Sunday dinner at my nan’s when I was younger (a weekly occurrence) and my sister Lucy getting in trouble every week for getting up from her chair to move the platter of sprouts further away from her. She couldn’t even stand to be near them! I didn’t mind, as long as she moved them closer to me. I think I’d have a dozen for every one Mum made Lucy eat. And my fondness for them has only grown with the ensuing years, as I’ve learned that treating them with a little love and respect will reward you again and again.

COOKING

I actually do blame the moms, dads, pops and nans of this world for completely cooking the life out of Brussels sprouts, bastardizing them so that the entire house smells, well, there really is no delicate way to put this, it smells like farts. My nan was one of the guilty parties, believe me. It didn’t put me off sprouts, though, but I will readily admit that she would boil them on high heat for at least an hour before serving so that they resembled waterlogged gray walnuts, with not a single thing gorgeous or green left about them. Certainly, they didn’t retain any of the vitamins or minerals that sprouts are naturally endowed with—these would have all gone down the drain. In fact, these little beauties are vitamin powerhouses, they’re high in protein and anti-oxidants and can be described with all those other buzzwords that equal “good for you.” But that is only if they are cooked correctly. So let me tell you how, and believe me, it is this simple …

Never, never, never cook them all the way through. Cook them until just al dente—that is, still with a little bite to them, then take them off the heat immediately as they will carry on cooking. By the time you dress them, either with a little olive oil or butter and some salt and pepper, and get them on the table, they will be just perfect for eating.

Their flavor is so delicate and sweet, yet so robust. They make a classic accompaniment when paired with chestnuts, thyme, mint and bacon.

There are a few other ways I like to cook them for a good result. You can finely chop the sprouts and cook them in lightly salted boiling water. Meanwhile, heat some butter until foaming and toss the drained sprouts through. Season and eat straight away. Cutting them finely reduces the cooking time.

I also enjoy peeling the individual leaves from the head. Discard any discolored or straggly outer ones and use the lovely tender inner leaves. Just lightly blanch them in boiling water and refresh under cold water. This will take away the “plasticky” coating on the outside of the leaves but they will retain their lovely raw, crunchy texture, much like cabbage. This is one of my favorite sides.

GROWING

As I mentioned, the Brussels sprout plant is a weird-looking one, but strangely beautiful in its own way. It is also really great to grow, and ideally suited for small spaces as it grows straight up. It will take quite some time to mature, about 3–6 months, like most members of the Brassica family, but you should enjoy a yield of about 2 pounds 4 ounces of sprouts per plant.

MASHED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH MINT, BEST END OF LAMB

SERVES 4

This is the clincher. If you have been in the “don’t go near Brussels sprouts” school then this will convert you. I personally love them, and this is my fail-safe recipe to cooking them well—the mint and vinegar help soften the flavor of the sprouts and I couldn’t think of anything better to serve them with than a roasted best end of lamb.

2 POUNDS 4 OUNCES-2 POUNDS 10 OUNCES BEST END OF LAMB (SEE NOTE)

OLIVE OIL, FOR SEARING

12 BRUSSELS SPROUTS

1 GENEROUS TABLESPOON OLIVE OIL

1 GENEROUS TABLESPOON CHARDONNAY VINEGAR

1 BIG PINCH OF MINT LEAVES, THINLY SLICED

FINE SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over high heat for 1 minute. Sear the lamb on all sides until a nice caramelized brown color, about 4 minutes all up, then transfer to a roasting tray and place in the oven for 35–45 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to rest, then carve into slices to serve.

Meanwhile, trim the bases of the Brussels sprouts, peel off the outer dark green leaves and quarter. Place the sprouts in a 8-cup capacity saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook for 10–13 minutes. Immediately drain, then add the sprouts back to the pan and place over low heat. You want to dry the sprouts out a little for 1–2 minutes. Take off the heat and mash roughly 8–10 times with an old-school hand-held masher. Now stir in the olive oil, vinegar and mint, season with salt and pepper and serve with the lamb.

Note Best of lamb is an old English cut of meat. It’s the best part of the neck and shoulder with 4 racks (or points) attached.

ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS, VANILLA-CONFIT CHESTNUTS & THYME

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE

Remember that Brussels sprouts are delicious until they’re overcooked. Then they emanate a farty smell and will taste like how the grans of the past cooked them. Follow this recipe to the “T” and I assure you that you will love the Brussels.

7 OUNCES SWEET CHESTNUTS

¾ CUP VANILLA SYRUP (SEE RECIPE)

20–30 BRUSSELS SPROUTS

3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL

SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER, DICED

5 SPRIGS THYME, LEAVES PICKED AND FINELY CHOPPED

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Score the top of the chestnuts with a sharp knife, place on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes or until they start to split open at the cut. Cool slightly, then peel while still warm.

Turn down the oven to 400°F. Place the peeled chestnuts and vanilla syrup in a small saucepan (4 inches in diameter) and bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to low and simmer for 15–17 minutes. Set aside.

Trim the bases of the Brussels sprouts, peel off the outer dark green leaves and halve. (You can either throw the outer leaves away or have a go at making the salad of Brussels sprout leaves, mozzarella, white anchovies). Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add the olive oil and warm for 1 minute, then add the sprouts, cut side down, and sauté for 4 minutes. Drain the chestnuts from the syrup with a slotted spoon and add to the pan. (Discard the syrup or save to use again.) Season with salt and pepper, add the butter and thyme and once the butter has melted, give it a good stir. Pour into a large ovenproof serving dish and roast for 12–15 minutes. Serve straight away.

SALAD OF BRUSSELS SPROUT LEAVES, MOZZARELLA, WHITE ANCHOVIES

SERVES 2 AS AN ENTRÉE OR AS A SIDE SALAD TO SHARE

You just wouldn’t know how delicious Brussels sprouts leaves in a salad are until you actually eat them in this way. This recipe can be adapted—use all sorts of delicious things you like.

2 TABLESPOONS WALNUTS

4⅓ OUNCES BRUSSELS SPROUT LEAVES (THE OUTER LEAVES, NOT THE INNER TOUGHER ONES)

½ CUP PICKED WATERCRESS

1 TEASPOON HONEY

1½ TABLESPOONS RED WINE VINEGAR

3 TABLESPOONS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

2 TABLESPOONS CURRANTS, SOAKED IN WARM WATER FOR 5 MINUTES, THEN DRAINED

8–12 WHITE ANCHOVY FILLETS

2 SHALLOTS, THINLY SLICED

1 SMALL (ABOUT 4 OUNCE) BUFFALO MOZZARELLA BALL, CUT INTO 8 SLICES

6 BASIL LEAVES, TORN

2 TABLESPOONS FINELY CHOPPED ITALIAN PARSLEY

SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

CRUSTY FRENCH BAGUETTE, TORN, TO SERVE

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the walnuts on a baking sheet and roast for 3–5 minutes or until fragrant. Allow to cool slightly, then roughly chop and set aside.

Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the sprout leaves, allow to come back to the boil and cook for 1 minute. Drain, then refresh under cold water. Pat the leaves dry and place in a large bowl with the watercress.

Place the honey in a small saucepan over low heat, add the vinegar, bring to a boil, then add the olive oil and take off the heat. Stir in the currants and walnuts and set aside. This is the dressing for the whole dish.

Add the anchovies and shallots to the sprout leaves and dress with a little of the dressing. Place the mozzarella onto plates, arrange the sprout mixture around the mozzarella, dress with a little more of the dressing, then scatter over the herbs. Finish with salt and pepper. Serve with the bread to mop the dressing up with.

(BRASSICA OLERACEA VAR. CAPITATA)

CABBAGE

Can’t stomach plain old white cabbage, because of the memories of the smell, off-putting color or texture of all the bad cabbage you have eaten before? Then it is time to put those prejudices aside and begin again. Just like its fair cousin the Brussels sprout, cabbage gets a bad rap when it truly is a delightful and delicate vegetable that is crying out to be respected and treated well.

RECIPES

TRUFFLED COLESLAW WITH GOLDEN SPICED QUAIL KIEV

SAUTÉED TUSCAN CABBAGE & MATSUTAKE MUSHROOM PASTA

SIMPLE BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH CUMBERLAND SAUSAGES

CABBAGE PATCH KID

Oh, cabbage. My first memory of cabbage is the short drive from Barnsley, in the UK, where we lived, to Darfield, where my aunty lived, every Sunday for lunch—Dad driving, Mum in the front and my elder sister, Lucy, and I in the back seat. We would pass a huge field on the left-hand side planted with cabbage and every time, without fail, Lucy would look over at that field, then lean in and whisper in my ear, “We found you in a box in that cabbage patch.” For years I actually thought my parents did find me in a cabbage patch! It used to upset me no end. Kids can be so cruel.

SAUERKRAUT TO SLAW

My Grandad Tom used to grow massive cabbages in his back garden, and it is a very popular and traditional English thing to find people cultivating cabbage in their allotments, which are small parcels of land that people lease from the local councils and they must be specifically used for growing food. They were introduced about 1,000 years ago, originally to compensate farmers who were forced from their lands by invasions and conquests, allowing them a subsistence living. Allotments today are hugely popular among people living in denser cities with no room for their own gardens. And in just about every single one, you will find cabbage growing. Perhaps this is a throwback to the time when growing your own food was really a matter of survival.

When you really look at it, cabbage is a staple of poorer economies the whole world over, and it plays a huge part in their national cuisine, particularly in the Eastern European bloc, where it is a cheap way to bulk out food. The Polish have their beautiful little traditional parcels of pierogi. The Germans ferment their cabbage and turn it into their famous Sauerkraut. And let’s not forget the cabbage leaves stuffed with ground meat and rice or barley held so dear by Czechs, Poles, Slovaks and Serbs alike. Cabbage abounds as beautiful, warm comfort food everywhere. Personally, coleslaw has my heart. I just love it. I can’t get enough of it.

There are so many varieties of cabbage, and different methods of serving it. As with Brussels sprouts, don’t let the fact that older generations absolutely abused this gorgeous vegetable put you off using it.

WHITE CABBAGE