Eat Greens

There may be a few good reasons why you are reading this book. Perhaps you have your own garden and want to explore new ways to prepare all the wonderful, plentiful green vegetables that you grow. Or you may be a novice to greens and are curious about how to expand your cooking repertoire and prepare the lovely produce that you see when shopping at your local farmers' market. Or maybe you are someone who wants to eat healthier foods and incorporate more greens into your diet as well as your family's. These are all excellent reasons to read and enjoy this book.

We love the pure and simple pleasure of growing, cooking, and eating greens. And fortunately, greens of all varieties are increasingly available at produce stands, farmers' markets, and supermarkets all around the country. People's eyes have been opened to the greatness of greens, and they are ready and willing to try new recipes and experiment with fresh produce that they are not necessarily familiar with. The popularity of greens is part of a general rediscovery of the joys of the real, earthy flavors and visual beauty found in fresh, seasonal produce.

Our approach to cooking greens is, "Get in the garden or go to the market, then decide what to cook." We seek out the best-quality, freshest produce that we can find in the garden, at farmers' markets, and in grocery stores. When we developed the recipes for this book we didn't consider these vegetables to be merely side dishes or afterthoughts to the main event. We cooked up a range of fantastic appetizers, soups, salads, and main dishes as well. We steamed, sautéed, stir-fried, braised, roasted, and blanched all manner of greens with delicious results. Of course, we cooked them with the usual suspects—olive oil, garlic, and lemon—but we also experimented with a range of other ingredients, such as ginger, chiles, anchovies, flavored oils, nuts, and sausages, and found that they work beautifully with and enhance the flavors of greens.

Not only do greens have wonderful and intriguing flavors, they are also very good for you and should be incorporated into everyone's diet. Fresh greens contain high amounts of vitamins C and E and beta-carotene, which are antioxidants that may possibly prevent cancer. They also have high amounts of essential minerals, particularly iron and calcium, and they improve immunity function. So it turns out that your mom was right when she said, "Eat your greens."

Another great asset of greens is that they are so versatile and flexible to cook with. Whatever greens are used in a given recipe, you should always feel free to substitute and adapt according to what is available and to your own taste. Herbed Leek and Watercress Soup is just fine with another green if there is no watercress to be found at the market or if you've just picked some fresh chard from the garden and want to add that instead. The same goes for Mixed Greens Gumbo, Kale, Sweet Potato, and Orzo Soup, or Swiss Chard Frittata. There are no hard and fast rules for cooking greens; you just need to use the freshest and best tasting ones you can find.

We hope that you use and enjoy this book and cook everything in it from artichokes to zucchini. May all of our tables be abundant with fresh, gorgeous greens!

If you are lucky enough to have a nice sunny spot in your yard, patio, or deck, put up a raised bed and fill it with greens. I am a lazy gardener, so I prefer my beds right close to my back door so I can observe the daily changes, and so I don't have to stray too far from my kitchen. They not only provide a lovely contrast to other flowering plants with the many different shades of green, but they are surprisingly easy to grow. I lived in New York City for forty years, and I killed many a houseplant there. People who know me can't believe that I can get anything to stay alive, much less grow. If I can do it, you can do it. I kid you not.

Arugula flourishes in planters, as does basil, parsley, and lemon balm; and if you don't want that pesky mint to take over your garden, a planter is the perfect home for it. Use your porch trellis for growing pole beans, and plant zucchini where it can spread out its super-sized leaves and bright yellow blossoms to make a perfect ground cover. You will be greatly rewarded when you plant flats of mixed salad greens. If you have never eaten a salad made with just-picked greens, you will truly be amazed that you can really taste their freshness. Your local garden nursery will have flats of seeded plants that you can just put right in, so it couldn't be easier.

The best part of growing greens is harvesting, and the more you pick, the more they grow. There is nothing better than an early evening stroll in the garden and gathering up a couple of zucchini and peppers and adding them to whatever is on the grill. Slice them and toss with olive oil, salt, and a splash of balsamic vinegar and use as a bed for your grilled meat or fish. Dinner done! I can't think of anything more delicious—or healthier. Growing greens is not only a summer pleasure. Here in the Northeast Swiss chard, Brussels sprouts, and kale will still be producing right up until mid-November. Lucky me.

Find out what Heat Zone you live in to determine the number of days over 86 degrees your region experiences. Plants vary in their ability to withstand heat as well as frost. The U.S. Department of Agriculture's map (www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html) will help you know the approximate length of time between the last and first frost for your area. You can add to this time by using a cold frame, which is basically a box with a transparent top that will trap radiant heat, which protects your plants from freezing, so that you can start plants sooner and harvest them later than otherwise.

I use raised beds, which are basically just a four-sided frame about a foot high resting on the ground. I fill them with about half earth and half composted manure. It gives you more control over your soil mix, and makes your garden easier to tend to. One of my friends has her beds raised on "legs" about three feet off the ground, which eliminates bending and protects her plants from creatures like rabbits and ground hogs. If you put your beds on legs, you can even store your garden tools and supplies underneath. My years of apartment living in New York have made me aware of using every inch of space. If you have the room, as I do, plant a thick hedge around your beds, like Mr. McGregor (Peter Rabbit's nemesis—or maybe that's vice versa). It is not foolproof, but it looks better than a fence, and it helps to steer critters in a different direction. You can add a little more protection by putting chicken wire along the inside perimeter. The great thing about leafy greens is that they are prolific growers, so a little sacrifice for hungry animals is not such a bad thing, albeit annoying. They'll grow back, and when they do, sometimes I sprinkle cayenne pepper over everything, even along the bottom of the hedge and along the pathways. If you are bothered by deer, I'm sorry. You may have to pick up your greens at the local farmers' market. When considering your soil, it is good to determine the pH levels. Typically, you can have your soil tested at a local agricultural extension center. You can also find out the percent of organic matter, which is an indicator of the naturally available nitrogen that is released as the organic matter breaks down. This is about all you have to know to fertilize your garden soil properly. A nominal fee is charged for these services. After you receive the results of your soil, you will know which type of potting soil mixture to buy. The proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are typically designated by numbers such as 5-10-5, 12-12-12, or 6-24-24.

Phosphorus is the most important fertilizer for starting new plants and should be set where roots develop. Ammonium nitrate is important for asparagus, cabbage, broccoli, cucumber, peas, beans, peppers, spinach, kale, and mustard and turnip greens. Nitrogen comes from breaking down organic matter, yearly maintenance, and side dressings for particular circumstances. Leafy vegetables need it earlier than fruit-bearing plants, which do better if nitrogen is added when they start to flower.

Soils are either more sand or more clay. Organic matter is the third constituent and is very controllable and should be from 2 to 4 percent. This is achieved by adding animal manures and green manures, which are legumes that are folded under while still in the green stage. You can also use peat moss, leaf mold, and compost. Manure should be well rotted, applied in the fall, and folded under. Compost is made by gathering waste material, such as grass, leaves, and plant refuse in layers six to eight inches deep. The pile should not be more than five feet wide and five feet high. Add a little soil and a handful of fertilizer to each layer as you build it up. Keep the pile moist. It takes six months to a year to mature.

Spread the seeds of greens on the soil and keep them well watered. Kale, cabbage, and lettuce are more difficult to grow from seed, so pick up sprouted plants at your nursery. If you want to start seeds inside, you will need to put them under grow lights. Alternating rows of greens with onions and or marigolds will diminish your loss to insects. Be on the lookout for aphids and other tiny bugs that your guests may not appreciate.

My really big secret to gardening is: "Don't forget to water!" Watering in the morning is best so that rot and fungus are avoided. Nobody likes to go to bed with their feet wet, so avoid late evening watering. Check your soil—if it feels dry below two inches, it needs water. Moisture should extend downwards at least five inches. Look at your plants—if they look dry and stressed, water them immediately, and give them a real good soaking.

Check your plants regularly for pests of both the bug and disease varieties. A bit of discoloration is acceptable, but totally engulfed plants should be pulled and discarded. When you have questions, my best advice is to ask the nursery where you purchase your plants. Most are growing local, so they can give you the best information about growing in your area.

It's also a good idea to have a real gardener, or, at least, your friends, look at your plants for both fun and productivity. My idea of a garden party is a stroll along the garden beds with a glass of wine and a good friend. Pick up a couple of peppers and head for the grill.

There is truly nothing more rewarding or more delicious than growing your own greens, and I urge everyone to plant them, nourish them, and enjoy.