Pesce alla Ligure

from Recipes From Paradise
by Fred Plotkin

Fish, Liguran Style

This is a simple but always delicious preparation that relies on the freshness of the fish being used. Although this preparation is done in a baking dish, there is a version used on fishing boats that employs a skillet. Typically, a Ligurian cook uses per serving one small whole fish that came from the se only shortly before being cooked. Among the choices are orata (gilthead), branzino (sea bass), or triglia (red mullet). You may also use a small red snapper or another pink- or white-fleshed fish that is not too delicate in flavor.

Makes 2 servings.

2 whole fish, approximately 8 ounces/225 g each
a few sprigs fresh marjoram, tarragon, or rosemary (optional)
1/2 cup/110 ml dry white wine, preferably Ligurian
1/4 cup/110 g small black olive oil
1/4 cup/110 g small black olives, preferably Taggia or Gaeta
1 pinch salt (optional)
2 teaspoons/ 5 g minced fresh garlic
2 tablespoons/15 g chopped fresh Italian (flat) parsley

preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Carefully gut, clean and scale each fish, leaving the head and tail intact. If you choose to, place a little fresh marjoram, tarragon, or rosemary in the cavity of each fish. Then place the fish in a baking dish large enough so that the fish fit in snugly but without pressing up against the sides or against one another. Combine the wine and oil in a bowl or measuring cup and then pour this mixture over the fish. Add the olives and optional salt to the liquid, cover with aluminum foil and back for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily at the touch of a fork. When the fish is cooked, toss on the garlic and parsley and serve the fish on a plate to which the olives and some cooking liquid have been added.

COOK'S VARIATION: Whether you place some herbs in the fish's cavity is up to you. This decision is a personal one for very Ligurian cook. But one distinct variation in this dish is that in eastern Liguria, cooks tend to toss raw garlic on top of the finished dish while in western Liguria they add garlic to the uncooked dish (or even put it in the fish's cavity). The choice for you really depends on whether you prefer raw or cooked garlic.

© 1997 by Fred Plotkin